Help with polishing new ‘non-traditional’ paint job?

Before you tell me that my paint job will fall off in 2 months, let me say that people have done this and had it last for years without any fading…

Anyway, I did a ‘$50 paint job’ with Rustoleum enamel on my old car, but I’m having trouble getting a good shine on most of it, however, I have gotten a very nice shine on the thin strip of metal on the top of the hatch, so I HAVE gotten a good shine on part of it so far, therefore I know it can be shined.

As far as I’m concerned, I’m not doing anything different on this part of the car than when I polished and got a good result with the exception of number of coats (there are more coats on this panel I’m having trouble with).

Here’s what I’m using;
-Wool Bonnet
-Hand Wetsanding with 1000, then 1500, then 2000 (it was fairly flat, at least good enough for an old car)
-Cheap Random Orbit single speed polisher
-Turtle Wax Rubbing Compound first
-Turtle Wax Polishing Compound second

I’ve got a dull sheen, but it’s so dull it’s only visibly shiny if you look at it from the side.

p.s. If you can help, I would be happy to give out my number, it would be greatly appreciated, just email my account.

jason is right, you need to a clear coat. make sure to remove all the wax first. wash it dish detergent, that will strip any wax, no guarantees on if it affects the paint or not.

good luck!!!

3 Responses to “Help with polishing new ‘non-traditional’ paint job?”

  1. you need clear coat, they cell it in a spray can at most auto parts stores, this is what gives you a shine not wax, waxing a car buffs out etching caused by small damage to the clear coat.
    References :

  2. jason is right, you need to a clear coat. make sure to remove all the wax first. wash it dish detergent, that will strip any wax, no guarantees on if it affects the paint or not.

    good luck!!!
    References :

  3. I don’t know about the rubbing and polishing compounds you are using but they may not be strong enough.
    Try some of the 3M rubbing compounds: they have quite a few grades and can usually be found in car paint stores or marine paint shops (they are used to polish the gelcoat on the pleasure boats). The most aggressive ones look like mud but they are probably too strong for your case.
    Finish with a finishing compound (usually looks like watered milk), and a good coating of wax with UV-protection.

    Next time, try some aggressive compound before painting to be sure that the surface is as smooth as possible before painting. Follow by cleaning with a strong pre-painting solvent to remove any remaining dirt or wax.
    90% of the finish is in the preparation.
    References :
    15 years in the pleasure craft business
    lots of info to our paint specialist

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